OT - vacation to Wyoming & Montana

[rockingamecock]

This is our tentative trip (fly & drive) for late spring. We want to see the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone at a minimum. I'd appreciate any ideas or suggestions (Airbnb's/cabins) from any of you guys that may have done this before. This is a first for us. Thanks.

 

[chief2791]

Squeeze as many days as possible into your trip.

The NE is my favorite part of the park, you'll see the most animals in that area of the park. I enjoy staying in Cooke City when I go. It's the closest entrance to Lamar Valley, get up and go in before daylight. It's also on the way to Beartooth Hwy, which you do not want to miss. Make it a day trip, go across in the morning, eat lunch in Red Lodge, and head back across in the afternoon.

It may be too late to get reservations at Old Faithful Inn, but I'd at least try to get one night there. It is crowded during the day, but when everyone heads for their hotels at the exits, it's quiet and spectacular.

 

[USC148360]

Little big horn, devils tower and if you have time deadwood in SD

 

[vacock#]

Squeeze as many days as possible into your trip.

The NE is my favorite part of the park, you'll see the most animals in that area of the park. I enjoy staying in Cooke City when I go. It's the closest entrance to Lamar Valley, get up and go in before daylight. It's also on the way to Beartooth Hwy, which you do not want to miss. Make it a day trip, go across in the morning, eat lunch in Red Lodge, and head back across in the afternoon.

It may be too late to get reservations at Old Faithful Inn, but I'd at least try to get one night there. It is crowded during the day, but when everyone heads for their hotels at the exits, it's quiet and spectacular.

Sorry, what is “NE”?

 

[chief2791]

Sorry, what is “NE”?

Northeast

 

[SILVERSPUR-rier]

The North East entrance to Yellowstone Park. That's where Lamar Valley and all the buffalo roam. Yellowstone is crazy beautiful. Don't miss walking down to see the waterfalls at the little grand canyon. Remember, in the spring/fall there is wildlife coming from the higher elevations (as we had a bear walk up past our car in October). If you go to Red Lodge (I have property about 10 minutes from there), the Red Box Car has really good burgers and is a "landmark" in the area. Downtown Red Lodge is pretty cool. If you like "craft" beers, there is Red Lodge Ales. If you want an overpriced steak there is the Carbon County Steak House. Depending on which gate you go out of, Cody WY has a pretty cool downtown area. If you were going during the summer I would say for sure go to the Rodeo, which runs every night. Deadwood SD is also really cool, but it is a LONG haul (6 hours or so) from Red Lodge. Definitely not a day trip. The Beartooth pass may not be open yet, as last year it didn't open until late May.

 

[The Coup Nazi]

Read about this guy before you go.

They Killed His Wife And Burned His House Down – Then He Ate Their Livers

While on a quest for revenge, Liver-Eating Johnson earned his gruesome nickname and struck fear into the hearts – and livers – of his enemies.

allthatsinteresting.com

 

[mavcock]

Waiting for the response from USCG1984, who has the goods.

 

[CarolinaCocky83]

We are making our way out there in July, We are driving out there and starting to work on where we want to stop.
We will have a baby in tow though. How does that affect touring Yellowstone. Can you push a stroller or will we have to tote her? I have wanted to go out that way for years and look forward to the trip so I will be keeping an eye on this thread and appreciate all the responses so far.

 

[Flameout12]

Where are you flying into?
Stay on EST....get up normal hrs (which is still dark).
Consider buying a yearly park pass. It might be a better bargain.
Phone service is spotty in most NPs. If you have an old Garmin device, might bring it.
Get into the parks early. There are some areas that get too crowded after 9 AM.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone was the highlight of YNP IMO. Be sure to see the upper and lower falls.
If you are not a hiker, you'll have to just gaze at the Tetons. But there are some good hikes up into the Tetons.
Bison stink....but they will walk right by your car.
Beartooth HWY will likely be still snow'd up and it is a lot of driving. I was disappointed when I drove part of it in '17.

 

[uscg1984]

This is our tentative trip (fly & drive) for late spring. We want to see the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone at a minimum. I'd appreciate any ideas or suggestions (Airbnb's/cabins) from any of you guys that may have done this before. This is a first for us. Thanks.

When, exactly, is "late spring," OP?

When I get home, I'll dig up some advice I gave in old threads where Freddie discussed a similar trip. But let me know your approximate dates because there are some real differences between, say, early May and early June.

 

[Boom4life]

I have been told by far the best time to go is September. Especially if not taking kids. I am one that will take my kids out of school for a special vacation such as that. Person that told me September lives out there.

 

[atl-cock]

Where are you flying into?
Stay on EST....get up normal hrs (which is still dark).
Consider buying a yearly park pass. It might be a better bargain.
Phone service is spotty in most NPs. If you have an old Garmin device, might bring it.
Get into the parks early. There are some areas that get too crowded after 9 AM.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone was the highlight of YNP IMO. Be sure to see the upper and lower falls.
If you are not a hiker, you'll have to just gaze at the Tetons. But there are some good hikes up into the Tetons.
Bison stink....but they will walk right by your car.
Beartooth HWY will likely be still snow'd up and it is a lot of driving. I was disappointed when I drove part of it in '17.

It'll be EDT by that point.

 

[Flameout12]

I have been told by far the best time to go is September.

Not really....that's when lots of smoke is possible. The fires start up during the summer.

 

[wycombecock]

Take US 30/US 287 The old Lincoln Highway.

Wyoming Old Lincoln Highway Tour and Guide

Downloadable brochure guide: This tour consists of two routes, both of which start in Laramie. The Southern Loop goes east towards Cheyenne and returns...

www.visitlaramie.org

 

[chief2791]

I have been told by far the best time to go is September. Especially if not taking kids. I am one that will take my kids out of school for a special vacation such as that. Person that told me September lives out there.

Was there the week after Labor Day one year, and I'd say it was probably the most enjoyable, not nearly as many people. It will be getting cold though. That trip, my wife and I flew into SLC and rented a motorcycle. The last day of the trip, it was 24 when we left West Yellowstone to head back to SLC. I think we thawed out somewhere near Idaho Falls.

 

[SILVERSPUR-rier]

I believe the Yellowstone pass is good for 7 days and was $35/car. Grand Tetons requires a separate $35 pass. You can get an annual "national" pass for $80, but it's only good for 2 people. Yellowstone is very accessible, as most of the well known sites have wooden walkways or well worn dirt/gravel paths. Some of the other sites (for example the little grand canyon waterfall) can only be accessed by going up/down a couple of hundred stone steps, which might not be good for a stroller. But again, most everything else is stroller friendly. I was there the 1st week in October and we were just on the back side of the leaves turning and the just starting to fall, but still really beautiful. Also, very few people in Yellowstone at that time. In the summer parking at the various sites can be an issue. We fly into Billings, which is about an hour north of Red Lodge.

 

[Ratheolcoach]

I believe the Yellowstone pass is good for 7 days and was $35/car. Grand Tetons requires a separate $35 pass. You can get an annual "national" pass for $80, but it's only good for 2 people. Yellowstone is very accessible, as most of the well known sites have wooden walkways or well worn dirt/gravel paths. Some of the other sites (for example the little grand canyon waterfall) can only be accessed by going up/down a couple of hundred stone steps, which might not be good for a stroller. But again, most everything else is stroller friendly. I was there the 1st week in October and we were just on the back side of the leaves turning and the just starting to fall, but still really beautiful. Also, very few people in Yellowstone at that time. In the summer parking at the various sites can be an issue. We fly into Billings, which is about an hour north of Red Lodge.

Billings is a neat little airport. Flew into there last June for a mission trip

 

[HI Cock]

When, exactly, is "late spring," OP?

July

 

[criminaltrackeralum1980]

The Grand Tetons are, by far, the most majestic set of mountains I have personally seen to date out west. I am aware there are those that have been to Glacier National Park, but that is quite a drive from Yellowstone as is Deadwood and Devils Tower in Wyoming. It took me about 6 plus hours to travel from Yellowstone to Mount Rushmore. The speed limit is 80 mph on these highways but it is just you and a few cars going the same direction (nothing like east coast highway travel).

You will also experience geysers at Yellowstone that will not be seen elsewhere. I tried to stay about 30 miles from Yellowstone, as the motel prices were much cheaper a little further out, but they were all sold out. The motels in the town just outside Yellowstone National Park are very expensive and should be avoided if possible.

They also run speed traps as you are leaving Yellowstone National Park traveling toward West Yellowstone, MT (the closest town). The speed limit leaving the park is like 20-25 mph and they have someone running radar in the exit area (where the park ends) of nothing but trees just before entering the town of West Yellowstone. As a retired LE, I could not help but think "And you wonder why people have such disdain for these actions?" You got a whole park you could be driving around in and you are sitting down here on some completely isolated exit road writing tickets.

 

[criminaltrackeralum1980]

PS: When you enter the park, you will get several pages of information. One was a yellow flyer that stated "Do not approach the Buffalo" and a drawing of a Buffalo charging at someone. I thought "What a waste of money having these printed...what idiot would do that?" And then you enter the area where the buffalo are roaming around near the street and you understand why.

 

[gamecox4982]

This is our tentative trip (fly & drive) for late spring. We want to see the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone at a minimum. I'd appreciate any ideas or suggestions (Airbnb's/cabins) from any of you guys that may have done this before. This is a first for us. Thanks.

Not sure how many you have in your party but for the six of us we rented a home at Jackson Hole Golf and Tennis. Home was absolutely gorgeous with the back drop of the Grand Tetons. Went Horseback Riding, Whitewater Rafting - Yellowstone- River Raft Tour and Golf.. Best vacation I ever had and I’ve been to a lot of great places - only regret was not spending more time in Yellowstone it’s a beautiful place. Prior to entering the park make sure you fill up with gas. Also, wish we hadn’t spent so much time at Ole Faithful- wasn’t that impressed

 

[Gamechamp]

I saw people get within 10-15 feet of elk and Buffalo to snap a photo. Idiots.

 

[chief2791]

I saw people get within 10-15 feet of elk and Buffalo to snap a photo. Idiots.

Was at Mammoth while the rut was going on and a couple people were going insane trying to get close-ups. The park ranger had his hands full, was getting agitated and I didn't blame him. I'm for leaving people to their own devices. Don't want a child to get hurt, but an adult should know better. To me, that's when "eff around and find out" comes into play.

 

[cockgun]

Squeeze as many days as possible into your trip.

The NE is my favorite part of the park, you'll see the most animals in that area of the park. I enjoy staying in Cooke City when I go. It's the closest entrance to Lamar Valley, get up and go in before daylight. It's also on the way to Beartooth Hwy, which you do not want to miss. Make it a day trip, go across in the morning, eat lunch in Red Lodge, and head back across in the afternoon.

It may be too late to get reservations at Old Faithful Inn, but I'd at least try to get one night there. It is crowded during the day, but when everyone heads for their hotels at the exits, it's quiet and spectacular.

I have been to Yellowstone and the Tetons many times, but it seems that I have always entered from the Teton side. Chief brings up an excellent point and if you can arrange your trip such that you get through the Cooke City and the Beartooth Highway, thus entering Yellowstone at the NE gate, you would in fact be doing yourself a favor. That was great advice, he really did you good.

 

[chief2791]

For those of you that like Winter, one of the best vacations is a multi-day snowmobile trip through Yellowstone. We (our party of 6) used a guide, highly recommended, and probably mandatory now. Left Flagg Ranch outside of south entrance day 1 and spent the night in Pahaska, day 2 spent the night in West Yellowstone, and then back to Flagg on the 3rd day. We slept, ate, and drank very well, the guide had everything set up for us.

Yellowstone is a totally different world on a snowmobile in the winter.

 

[Flameout12]

I saw people get within 10-15 feet of elk and Buffalo to snap a photo. Idiots.

All of the people you see in the below pic are in danger of being charged. Look at the little guy.

 

[Flameout12]

...thus entering Yellowstone at the NE gate...

Providing the road is open. That is the area most likely to be snowed under.

 

[Ratheolcoach]

For those of you that like Winter, one of the best vacations is a multi-day snowmobile trip through Yellowstone. We (our party of 6) used a guide, highly recommended, and probably mandatory now. Left Flagg Ranch outside of south entrance day 1 and spent the night in Pahaska, day 2 spent the night in West Yellowstone, and then back to Flagg on the 3rd day. We slept, ate, and drank very well, the guide had everything set up for us.

Yellowstone is a totally different world on a snowmobile in the winter.

Who did y’all use for this? Sounds amazing

 

[atl-cock]

Was there the week after Labor Day one year, and I'd say it was probably the most enjoyable, not nearly as many people. It will be getting cold though. That trip, my wife and I flew into SLC and rented a motorcycle. The last day of the trip, it was 24 when we left West Yellowstone to head back to SLC. I think we thawed out somewhere near Idaho Falls.

Too bad it wasn't 24°C.

 

[Snake006]

Don't look Rip or Beth Dutton directly in the eye.

 

[chief2791]

Who did y’all use for this? Sounds amazing

Julie Johnston was the guide that we used, but this was around 15 years ago. I did a google search for her, and it looks like she doesn't do the snowmobile trips anymore, but she does do multi-day wolves and wildlife. Julie is freakin' awesome. My parents have done 8-10 different trips with her as guide. She's worth every penny.

Julie Johnston - Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris

Julie owns Hawk's Rest Ranch where she boards and trains horses and assists with animal rescues in the area. She guides full time and is grateful every day for the people and places that make Jackson Hole home.

jacksonholewildlifesafaris.com

 

[uscg1984]

Yellowstone is a totally different world on a snowmobile in the winter.

This is true. The park is a completely different experience in the winter when 99% of the people are gone. For those who aren't up for a snowmobile journey, they also offer snow-coach tours (think 15 passenger van on tracks). Additionally, the road from Gardiner, MT to Cooke City, MT, through the aforementioned NE corner of the park and the Lamar River Valley remains open year round. For those who can deal with sub-zero temps, it's an incredible experience.

 

[uscg1984]

This is our tentative trip (fly & drive) for late spring. We want to see the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone at a minimum. I'd appreciate any ideas or suggestions (Airbnb's/cabins) from any of you guys that may have done this before. This is a first for us. Thanks.

I live 2 hours north of Yellowstone and this entire area of the country has always been one of my true passions. I love it.

Here are a couple of older threads with similar discussions that you mind find helpful:

OT: Western US Travel

My clan (Myself, Wife, two teenagers) are planning to do a western US vacation this summer (pending states open). From Nevada, up (by some route) to Montana, over to Seattle and down the Pacific coast. Has anyone on here made a similar trip and have any must do suggestions? We are already...

southcarolina.forums.rivals.com

Hey uscg1984 and Hi-Cock.

My wife wants to go to Glacier and see Going to the Sun Road. But, here's the rub, she hates to ride in cars for 10-12 hours per day. I told her that I want to see more and do more than visit Glacier. What are some other things we could that would be close by to Glacier? She likes to stay in...

southcarolina.forums.rivals.com

As far as Yellowstone goes, I'll echo what's been said before about the NE corner of the park being perhaps the most beautiful part of the park but probably the least explored. The Lamar River Valley is definitely your best chance for seeing large herds (hundreds and hundreds) of bison. Additionally, the Beartooth Highway runs from the NE entrance of the park to Red Lodge, MT. If you are in the area, a drive on the Beartooth is NOT TO BE MISSED. As has been stated above, the Beartooth Highway usually fully opens around Memorial Day each year, but even on that weekend, the spectacular views may be obstructed by the sheer walls of snow on each side of the road.

Give yourself as much time for Yellowstone and Grand Teton as you can. In the last few years, I've probably spent 45 days in the park and every time I go, I do some hike or see something spectacular that I've never seen before. You really need about 3 days, minimum, to hit the highlights of Yellowstone. Grand Teton is incredible, but it's a small park. If you end up using Jackson Hole as your base of operations for seeing Yellowstone, you'll drive through Grand Teton every day, so it's possible to squeeze in a Grand Teton hike each afternoon and feel like you've done a pretty good job of "seeing" Grand Teton.

I won't repeat here everything mentioned in the threads above. But I will repeat one piece of advice I give to every new Yellowstone tourist. After you enter the park the first time, chances are good that you will see bison within your first half hour in the park. DO NOT stop in the middle of the road to take a picture of said bison. Pull off to the side if you wish, but you will see many bison during your time in Yellowstone, so don't be THAT GUY who makes everybody angry by stopping traffic just so you can get a picture that will likely be repeated hundreds of times.

At least one of the threads I linked above talks about visiting Glacier National Park as well. Glacier is the living embodiment of "shock and awe," but if your time frame is late May or early June, the Going To The Sun Road won't be fully open. You won't see enough of the park that time of year to make the trip worth it, in my opinion.

 

[uscg1984]

I have been told by far the best time to go is September. Especially if not taking kids. I am one that will take my kids out of school for a special vacation such as that. Person that told me September lives out there.

I think September is the best. As someone said above, August is generally the fire season out west, so there is a chance you will run into smoke in early September. However, in most normal years, the smoke has cleared considerably by the weekend after Labor Day. Most parts of the northern Rockies have experienced a significant snow by that date which usually brings an abrupt end too the fire season. This past September was the exception. It was an unusually hot and dry year, so the smoke lingered until late September. In most years, if you make your visit a week or so after Labor Day, you'll be good. Whatever smoke or snow risks there might be are far outweighed by the reduced crowds in September. You'll also probably catch the elk rut around that time, which increases your chances of seeing some really nice bulls.

 

[Boom4life]

I think September is the best. As someone said above, August is generally the fire season out west, so there is a chance you will run into smoke in early September. However, in most normal years, the smoke has cleared considerably by the weekend after Labor Day. Most parts of the northern Rockies have experienced a significant snow by that date which usually brings an abrupt end too the fire season. This past September was the exception. It was an unusually hot and dry year, so the smoke lingered until late September. In most years, if you make your visit a week or so after Labor Day, you'll be good. Whatever smoke or snow risks there might be are far outweighed by the reduced crowds in September. You'll also probably catch the elk rut around that time, which increases your chances of seeing some really nice bulls.

I wasn’t going to get into it here but that’s the only time I would go for that specific reason. I’m not going out there without elk hunting at the same time.

 

[Freddie.B.Cocky]

The North East entrance to Yellowstone Park. That's where Lamar Valley and all the buffalo roam. Yellowstone is crazy beautiful. Don't miss walking down to see the waterfalls at the little grand canyon. Remember, in the spring/fall there is wildlife coming from the higher elevations (as we had a bear walk up past our car in October). If you go to Red Lodge (I have property about 10 minutes from there), the Red Box Car has really good burgers and is a "landmark" in the area. Downtown Red Lodge is pretty cool. If you like "craft" beers, there is Red Lodge Ales. If you want an overpriced steak there is the Carbon County Steak House. Depending on which gate you go out of, Cody WY has a pretty cool downtown area. If you were going during the summer I would say for sure go to the Rodeo, which runs every night. Deadwood SD is also really cool, but it is a LONG haul (6 hours or so) from Red Lodge. Definitely not a day trip. The Beartooth pass may not be open yet, as last year it didn't open until late May.

I drove through Red Lodge after driving the Beartooth Hwy. The Beartooth Hwy is a must see, imo. I left Cooke City and hit the Beartooth Hwy, man everything on that highway was absolutely breath taking. I started stopping every hundred yards or so to take pictures until I realized, I was never going to make it to Billings. Every turn of the Beartooth Hwy has scenery that is prettier than the scenery you just saw in the last turn.

I drove through Red Lodge and wish I had spend the night there and ate at one of the nicer restaurants in town. We use to have a poster that worked at the Union County Steak House. I wish I had eaten there but I didn't know it was overpriced but by the time I got to Red Lodge I was tried and hungry. However, Red Lodge was packed, people walking all over the place and I figured it would be hard to find a vacancy at a hotel and would be equally as hard to get into a restaurant. So, I drove to Billings and ate at the Texas Roadhouse - LOL!

 

[Freddie.B.Cocky]

Little big horn, devils tower and if you have time deadwood in SD

I visited the Little Big Horn Battle Field. Very interesting and I highly recommend the park. I had plan to see Devils Tower on my way to Mt. Rushmore but somehow took a different route and didn't pass Devils Tower. I didn't have time to visit Deadwood but would have love to seen the town. But I thoroughly enjoyed the Black Hills - they were breathtaking to me.

 

[Freddie.B.Cocky]

Waiting for the response from USCG1984, who has the goods.

Now he's the man one wants to use as a tour consultant for that part of the country.

 

[Freddie.B.Cocky]

For those of you that like Winter, one of the best vacations is a multi-day snowmobile trip through Yellowstone. We (our party of 6) used a guide, highly recommended, and probably mandatory now. Left Flagg Ranch outside of south entrance day 1 and spent the night in Pahaska, day 2 spent the night in West Yellowstone, and then back to Flagg on the 3rd day. We slept, ate, and drank very well, the guide had everything set up for us.

Yellowstone is a totally different world on a snowmobile in the winter.

I would love to do that sometime.